Next - Vegan

Next Restaurant is the second restaurant opened by co-owners Grant Achatz (chef) and Nick Kokonas (investor). Their first restaurant, Alinea, has been awarded three Michelin stars and is consistently ranked one of the top restaurants in the world. I don’t remember the exact story about how the concept for Next was created (you can read about it in Grand Achatz’ book – Life on the Life, really good read!), but basically it all happened one night after service at Alinea. Grant knew he wanted to open another restaurant, but he thought it would be too boring to do the same type of cuisine over and over again each night. Then he thought it could be possible to change themes every few months with the goal of having the best version of that cuisine for those few months. And that’s how Next was born!

 

To date they have beautifully executed about nine different themes, which include: Paris 1906 (Escoffier), Childhood, Thailand, El Bulli, Sicily, Kyoto, The Hunt, Vegan and Bocuse d’Or (coming next month). For each theme they release a "teaser" video and the Vegan one was a lot more tongue in cheek than they normally are. In the video you'll see a lot of other local chefs along with Dave Beran (executive chef), Grant Achatz, Nick Kokonas, as well as other staff, in the video. 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBDGzW_xLK8&noredirect=1

Next (and now Alinea) don’t take reservations, you have to buy tickets. Much like going to the theater, patrons are then responsible for the reservation that they make, no more last minute cancellations or no-shows. However tickets have been pretty ridiculously hard to get. We’ve been really lucky and in the right place at the right time to get tickets. We were especially lucky to have been able to be “season tickets holders” the last two seasons, which includes tickets for the three themes of the year. After basically stalking Next’s Facebook page my husband successfully logged in at the perfect time and snapped them up – we read that tickets were gone in seven seconds. So we’ve been lucky to have had the opportunity to dine during most of these themes, and that brings us to our most recent dinner at the Vegan theme in May.


My Mom and I both travelled to Chicago for the night (we left my Dad and my husband at home this time), and met friends of mine that enjoy the art of fine food as well. We started our evening at The Aviary, the “bar” next door to Next, also run by Achatz and Kokonas. This is not a typical bar, cocktails are created by very talented mixologists and chefs. We each ordered a drink and had The Luau (pineapple, matcha, chartreuse, gin), Tropic Thunder (wild lime, hibiscus, pineapple, tequila) and the Barrel Aged Negroni. The drinks are always beautiful to look at and exceptionally tasty. The Tropic Thunder was probably the most interesting, it kept changing color and flavor. We were so intrigued that we brought it with us into Next and continued to sip on it as we had our dinner.
 



Tropic Thunder



The Luau

When it was time for our seating, we were ushered through the back to our table at Next. It was beautifully set with what looked like a tree and pond. Chef Achatz doesn’t like anything on the table that’s not relevant, so we knew at some point we’d be seeing these items in our meal progression.

Pond

Tree

When we were seated, we were given a challenge from Chef Achatz:

 

What if meat did not exist? Or fish? What would be the focal point of a dish?

 

On many plates vegetables can be but an afterthought or quite literally a 'side dish' -- the supporting actor. For our team vegetable driven dishes have always forced us to be more creative. Maybe, we thought, it's time for vegetables to take the lead.

 

This menu is not about a movement or a political ideology. We do not believe "meat is murder" and are firmly omnivores in every sense. But we also understand that many cultures throughout history have, by choice or necessity, focused on plant-based diets. By stripping away many ingredients that we rely on we've come to a new understanding of so many common ones.

 

Challenge your perceptions of what Vegan cuisine can be. We have. And we are excited by the results.

 

Starter and Burnt Avocado

Pretty quickly our table was covered in amazing dishes of bite-sized morsels and a huge rock. The rock was covered in torched avocado and topped with little pieces of fried kale. To eat the avocado we were directed to the “tree” which we then realized had large, thin crackers in the branches.  We had several other bites on the table including: a frozen potato bite that tasted like a baked potato with sour cream, seaweed sponge cake (that tasted just like sushi), rambutan shells (a play on sea urchin) filled with custard, tempeh bite, and roasted artichokes with an artichoke puree. All of these were beautiful and flavor filled bites, a perfect way to start our meal!

Burned Avocado

Baby Artichoke

 

Sprouted Tempeh (on square plate), Nori Dumpling (green), Earl Grey Rambutan

 

Earl Grey Rambutan (inside)



Fermented Apples and Lichen

The next course was inspired by apples and was served with homemade cider vinegar as our beverage, aged in (and served out of) a log!

 

 

Lily Pond

celery, crab apple, meyer lemon

This course took advantage of the pond that was on our table! The bowls were placed in front of us, and then the server "harvested" herbs that had been marinating in the "pond" and placed them in our bowls, along with a little of the marinating liquid.

 

 

 

Rice Yogurt and White Asparagus

This course was one of our favorites! It was incredibly creamy, the asparagus was poached perfectly, and the topping was crisp!

 

 

 

Salsifies with Oyster and Dandelion

Obviously the oyster in this dish was from the mushroom family. It wasn't my favorite, texturally and the flavor combinations.

 

 

 

 Swiss Chard and Douchi

The was incredibly good! The swiss chard was fried perfectly and the salad at the right was creamy.

 

 

 

 

It starts to get a little fuzzy after this, we'd had so much to eat (and drink)! So I'll stick with the title of the dish, and anything else I remember! 

 

 

 

Kombu Atoll with tamarind, aloe, and pea

 

 

 

Mushroom Cart

huitlacoche, blueberry, bell pepper

This was great! Instead of a platter with steaks (like at a steak house), they brought around a Mushroom Cart showing all the varieties of mushrooms they'd used in the following dishes. And the dish that followed was another one of our favorites - meaty and hearty!

 

 

 

 

Red Onion | inspired by Stupak

mango, galangal, kaffir lime

 

 

 

Curry Roasted Cauliflower

 

 

 

Olive Oil Jam and Bitter Chocolate

This was a very interesting dish, and not my favorite, but I have to admit I'm not much of a chocolate fan. The other chocolate lovers at the table loved it!

 

 

Hibiscus and Pistachio

This was a wonderful dessert! There were so many different things going on, but they all worked perfectly together. And it was served on a stump, very interesting!

 

 

 

 Steamed Crepes

These were a wonderful substitute for mignardises! Richard Blais worked with Grant Achatz when they were both at The French Laundry, so I'm not sure who got this technique from whom, but on Top Chef, Richard was obsessed with making sponge cake in the microwave. I'm guessing this was the same technique (we've also had something similar for another theme)!

 

 

 

 

I was actually incredibly full at the end of this dinner! We've been to quite a few really long dinners, but I wasn't really expecting to leave as stuffed as I was. I almost didn't make it through the last three courses! I was so pleased that we made it through most of the dinner without any of the soy products or fake meat. They truly used vegetables, which was wonderfully creative and satisfying.

 

We can't wait for the next theme - Bocuse d'Or - in October! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summer Picnic!

I ask you, does it get any better than this?  Happy Summer!

Today's summer recipe, simple deviled eggs:

Ingredients:

*  Fresh eggs
*  Dill pickles (I used Dill pickle relish)
*  Dijon mustard
*  Mayonnaise
*  Salt (pinch)
*  Pepper (pinch)
*  Paprika (as garnish)
*  Sugar (pinch)

Directions:

1.  Boil eggs then drain and soak in lukewarm water to cool.

2.  Peel eggs (have fun!) and cut in half, depositing the yolks into a medium sized mixing bowl.

3.  Combine all ingredients listed above into the mixing bowl with the yolks.  Use a pinch of all spices and start with a Tablespoon or two of the mustard, mayo and pickles until you reach a desired flavor combo.  Keep playing around with it.

4.  Mix ingredients very well, until smooth.  Take a sandwich-sized plastic bag and cut the bottom edge off one corner.  Fill the bad with the mixture and use the bag as a "pastry bag" to fill the egg halves.

5.  Chill for at least an hour prior to serving.

Don't let these sit out in the sun too long!  They're so tasty they should disappear quickly.  :)

Enjoy!

Because You Can't Go Wrong with BACON

Continuing the theme of our Tom Colicchio food fest, here's the recipe for Braised Pork Belly, or as he calls it, Fresh Bacon.  Ain't nothin' wrong with some fresh bacon, people.

Ingredients

*  1 TSP peanut oil
*  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
*  2 lbs pork belly, skin on
*  1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
*  2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
*  2 celery stalks, peeled and coarsely chopped
*  1 leek, white part only, trimmed and chopped
*  2 garlic cloves, peeled
*  About 3 cups Brown Chicken Stock

Directions
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.  Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat until the oil slides easily across the pan.  Salt and pepper the pork and add it, fat-side down, to the skillet.  Cook until the skin is braised, about 15 minutes, then transfer the pork to a plate.

2.  Pour off all but about 2 TSP of fat, and add the onions, carrots, celery, leek and garlic to the skillet.  Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they are tender and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes.  Add the pork belly to the skillet, fat-side up, and add about 2 cups of stock (it should surround but not cover the meat).  Bring the stock to a simmer, then transfer the skillet to the oven.  Gently simmer the pork, uncovered, for 1 hour, then add another cup of stock.  Continue cooking until the pork is tender enough to cut with a fork, about 1 hour longer.

3.   Allow the pork to cool in the braising liquid.  Remove the pork from the liquid, then gently lift off and discard the skin (use a small knife to separate any pieces that don't come away from the fat easily).  Score the fat, making crosshatch incisions, then cut the pork into 4 equal pieces.

4.  Increase the oven to 400 degrees.  Strain the braising liquid, discarding the solids.  Return the liquid to the skillet, bring it to a simmer, and skim off the fat.  Return pork, fat-side up, to the skillet.  Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook, without basting, until the pork is heated through and the fat nicely browned, about 20 minutes.  Serve the pork in a shallow bowl moistened with a bit of the braising liquid.

Then transfer from plate to mouth to belly (onto ass - but that's another story).  Enjoy!

*Recipe by Tom Colicchio

Beast + Bottle = Tasty

We had brunch yesterday at a new(ish) restaurant in Uptown:  Beast and Bottle.  They strive to use local (seasonal) foods and are committed to using the whole animal, "nose to tail."  They raise their own hens for eggs and let me tell you, y to the um.

Like any good local joint, they offer inside out outside dining.

 

 

The restaurant has a rustic feel and the wait staff/hostess staff was incredibly friendly and prompt.  Very good (Sunday brunch) dining experience overall.

Our appetizer was a buttermilk lemon scone with a strawberry infused cream cheese drizzle.

My entrée was one of the daily specials:  scrambled eggs with parsley and chives, served with fried green tomatoes, goat cheese curd, a fresh spring salad, and toast.

 

I would like to try their lunch as well.  They offer brunch Fri-Sat-Sun, 10-2.  The next time you're in uptown, swing by and try it out.

Roasted Tomatoes and Garlic

Tom Colicchio's recipe for Roasted Tomatoes and Garlic is more about technique than complex flavor combinations.  This simple dish is tasty on its own (as an appetizer or a side) and also, I discovered, makes a flavorful and light spaghetti sauce.  Make sure you have at least three hours to spare in order to give this the lovin' it needs.

Can't wait for tomato season!

Ingredients

*  10 ripe tomatoes, stems and cores removed (I recommend large, fresh tomatoes)
*  1 large head of garlic, divided into unpeeled cloves
*  1/4 cup EVOO
*  Kosher salt
*  Freshly ground black pepper
*  4 sprigs of fresh thyme (I used about 8 sprigs because I used large tomatoes)

Directions

1.  Heat oven to 350 degrees.
2.  Cut tomatoes in half (through the equator).
3.  Place tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil in a large bowl.
4.  Season with salt and pepper, and mix gently.
5.  Line baking dishes with foil.  Place tomatoes on the foil, cut side down, and pour the remaining olive oil mixture over them.
6.  Divide the garlic and thyme between the baking dishes, and bake until the tomato skins loosen, about 20 minutes.  (This will depend on your oven.  In mine, this process takes at least 30 minutes.)
7.  Remove and discard the tomato skins.
8.  Pour the juices into a bowl and reserve.
9.  Return tomatoes to oven and reduce heat to 275 degrees.
10.  Continue roasting, periodically pouring out and reserving the juices, until tomatoes are slightly shrunken and appear cooked and concentrated but not yet dry (about 3-4 hours more).
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In addition to making this dish for supper club, I made it (cooking about 2.5 hours total instead of 4.5) as a spaghetti sauce.  Cooking less time meant that the garlic was a bit more firm, but there was still a good roasted flavor from both the tomatoes and garlic. 

Add a little salt and you have yourself a meal!

Recipe by Tom Colicchio
Notes in italics are my own

Fab Fava Bean Salad

This fresh Fava Bean Salad is perfect for summer.  The texture and flavor combinations are stellar!

Ingredients

*  1.5 pounds fava beans, shelled
*  5 TSP chopped walnuts
*  2.5 TSP walnut oil (or olive oil)
*  Freshly ground black pepper
*  7 large radishes, trimmed
*  2 tsp chopped fresh sage
*  1 TSP chopped fresh chives
*  1/4 pound thinly sliced prosciutto
*  2 TSP EVOO
*  1 lemon, quartered
*  1 small piece Pecorino Romano

Directions

1.  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.  Cook the fava beans in the water until they are tender and can be easily peeled, about five minutes.  Drain the beans, rinse them under cold water, then slip off the tough outer skins.  Place them in a bowl.

2.  Combine the walnuts and walnut oil in a food processor and pulse until you have a course paste.  Season the walnut paste with salt and pepper.

3.  Thinly slice the radishes.  Add the radishes, sage, chives, walnut paste, salt and pepper to the fava beans and mix well. 

4.  Divide the prosciutto among four plates, top with fava bean salad, and drizzle with olive oil.  Squeeze a little lemon juice over each salad, top each salad with thinly-shaved Pecorino Romano, and serve.

Recipe by Tom Colicchio.

Unexpected Eats: Kachina Grill

The latest in our series of unexpected eats is the Kachina Grill located in the Westin Hotel in Westminster.  I know what you're thinking (don't judge!); you're shaking your head and wondering why our first recommendation was for an airport cantina and our second is for a hotel chain restaurant.  But wait!  That's why it's called unexpected - just hang in there for a minute and we'll explain.

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Not one but two members of our supper club have found themselves, dare I say it?, unexpectedly in the Kachina Grill.  Both were pleasantly surprised at the fresh ingredients, local flavors, variety of the menu, and ambiance.

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The flavors are Southwestern and the cocktails are flowing.  The next time you're in the area, give it a try!  We suspect you won't be disappointed.

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