Some of "Z" Best Food Around Denver

Unassuming, cozy, French comfort food - nothing wrong with those descriptors, oui? 

It was on a recent frozen Saturday evening in January that I found myself hungry and anxious. Cabin fever was hitting this lady hard. The husband, sensing my mood, astutely answered, "Whatever you're up for, babe." 

With that affirmation, I hit up my trusty 5280 website for ideas. Linger, Root Down, Cafe de Brazil....all of our options sounded good. I scrolled through the list a bit more. Z Cuisine. Hmmm. I know that name. It consistently tops the "Best of" lists around town, and yet I knew nothing about it. 

I navigated over to the restaurant's website, http://zcuisineonline.com/ to see if its offerings could sate my hunger and assuage my anxiety. A review of its sample menu - Z Cuisine places heavy emphasis on local and seasonal menu items - told me that, oh yeah, this could be a very, very good thing.

Heeding 5280's advice to arrive tres early because reservations of less than 6 are not accepted, we made our way downtown at 4:30 p.m. Z Cuisine is nestled in a brick building on a classically old corner in the Lower Highlands. It's surrounded by homes of varying vintage and the neighborhood is impossibly charming - well, um, this writer might be a bit biased. A Cote, the slightly dangerous sister to Z Cuisine, resides next door and specializes in absinthe as well as other libations. A Cote serves a limited menu and its brick-wall interior is a welcome antithesis to some of the ultra-modern downtown bars. It's also probably the only bar in Denver that screens old black-and-white Julia Child cooking shows.

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Upon pushing through the squeaky wooden front door, Z Cuisine envelopes you like an old friend. The simple, rustic French decor is a relief - any concerns about pretentious foods and attitudes fall away. We opted for high seats at the bar, preferring to observe the action in the kitchen to our right, as well as to make casual conversation with the wait staff.

Based on our server's recommendation and a couple of gratis samples, we quickly selected a bottle of French red. This writer forgot to take a picture of the label, but based on past preferences (from which she doesn't stray far), it's safe to assume the bottle was a blend of cote du rhone and cabernet.

Having uncorked the bottle, we set about discussing the menu with our server. Be prepared to chat for 15 minutes or more about Z Cuisine's ever-changing menu options. This evening, our server discussed in great detail the source of the scallops and the diver who had hand-plucked them from the sea.

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 In place of main items, we selected three starters to share.

Our salad was brought first. Technically, it was called salade de chevre chaud gratinee au pistou - but we're going to just call it awesome French salad. All of the ingredients were beautifully, deliciously fresh. The arrangement was simple: vibrant green butter lettuce laid the foundation for nests of marinated nicoise olives, roasted red peppers, and goat cheese. All of these components wore a layer of delicate French vinaigrette that served to add a burst of flavor without overwhelming the senses. 

More. We want more. 

OK, next on the list to battle our hunger was quite possibly the best charcuterie board we've ever had the pleasure of snarfing down. It was arranged just the way I like it - pockets of savory, thin-sliced meats and petite mounds of pork pate; soft, mellow French cheeses to round out the other sharp flavors; wine-soaked raisins; heavenly marinated nicoise olives; grainy stone-ground mustard; smoky strings of roasted red pepper; apricot chutney for a bit of sweetness; and a handful of walnuts for that very necessary crunch.

All rules of decorum went out the window as husband and wife plowed through the charcuterie board. The gloves were off and the niceties put aside as we audibly groaned at the tastiness and competed for the last smear of chutney. I love you. Now get out of the way of my fork.

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Having sated ourselves quite well on meats and cheeses, our last item arrived and was the equivalent of a soft, warm pair of pajamas on a chill morning. Our tartlette consisted of nothing but the good stuff: bacon, onions, French cheese, and potatoes doing the backstroke in a bechamel sauce and capped with a flaky crust. Ooh la la. Further adding to what now was this writer's full-blown love affair with the subject restaurant, the tartlette was presented in a tiny, red Le Creuset round casserole dish. Did I mention I collect red Le Creuset dishes? 

The tartlette was everything you want in a French casserole: equal parts savory and creamy. Calories be damned. Accompanying this epic comfort food was an adorable paper bag containing pieces of fresh-baked French baguette. The dipping commenced with a flurry until both the tartlette and the baguette were no mas. Le sigh.

But not to worry because before we had finished the bottle of wine, we had pre-ordered a trio of desserts. Having forgotten all about this amid the feeding frenzy of the past three courses, our dessert arrived just minutes later. Upon seeing the perfectly simple white plate adorned with gorgeous treats, I might have clapped. Just a couple of times. 

The dessert trio - suggested by our server - consisted of profiteroles encasing a generous heap of fresh cream and then glazed with caramel, traditional creme brulee, and a potent ramekin of chocolate mousse. The portions were appropriate and each dessert was excellent - a solid option for concluding a shared meal.

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 Excluding wine, three shared starters and the dessert trio totaled $70 before tip. It was plenty of food for two people, and both of us were quite surprised at the value.

Lest this review become too long (readers: too late, Jen), I must make one quick note about the service. It's good, but not excellent. One doesn't get the impression that Z Cuisine is striving for the title of Best Restaurant in Denver. Service is generally solid and the verbal menu is an interesting way to make a meaningful connection with one's server. However, attention to detail is almost an afterthought, which is actually what makes Z Cuisine endearing and comfortable. One can take comfort in the slightly forgetful, convivial atmosphere. 

Z Cuisine excels at its mission: a bistro with an ambience. 

Golf clap, Z Cuisine. You're doing it right.

{Contributed by Supper Club Member Extraordinaire, Jen.}